The Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook: Identification, Storage & Tips

Vintage Perfumes

Welcome to the definitive handbook for the vintage perfume collector. Whether you are hunting for lost masterpieces or trying to preserve your precious finds, this guide consolidates essential knowledge on identification, storage, and testing.

Section 1: The Basics of Identification

Before verifying a specific batch code, there are general indicators on the box that can help you estimate the era of a perfume.

1. The EMB Code (French Products)

Since 1978-1979, French law required "Made in France" products to carry an EMB Code (e.g., EMB 92050). This is a packer's code, not a batch code.

2. The Barcode (EAN)

Barcodes became standard in the perfume industry around 1989-1991.

3. The "26 Allergens" List & Ingredients

In 2005, the EU mandated the listing of 26 potential allergens (e.g., Linalool, Citral, Oakmoss Extract) on packaging if present in certain concentrations.

Section 2: Storage & Preservation

Splash vs. Spray

The greatest enemy of vintage perfume is evaporation and oxidation.

Preserving Splash Bottles

If you have a splash bottle, consider these steps to save it:

  1. Seal It: Use Parafilm (laboratory sealing film) or plumber's Teflon tape around the cap to create an airtight seal.
  2. Decant It: If you plan to use it, use a sterile syringe to transfer the liquid into a new glass spray bottle. This protects the original juice from air exposure during daily use.
  3. Storage Conditions: Always store away from light and heat. A dark cupboard at stable room temperature is ideal.

Section 3: Testing & Smelling

Smelling a vintage perfume is an art. Avoid the "two-second sniff" in a shop.

How to Test Properly

  1. Use Blotters (Mouillettes): Use large, absorbent paper strips.
  2. Spray from a Distance: Do not soak the paper. Let the mist fall on it.
  3. Wait: Alcohol needs a moment to evaporate. Smelling immediately only gives you an alcohol burn.

The "Progressive Smelling" Technique

To understand evolution, try this:

  1. Spray Strip A. Wait 20 minutes.
  2. Spray Strip B. Wait 10 minutes.
  3. Spray Strip C. Smell immediately.
  4. Compare them. Strip A shows the heart/base notes. Strip C shows the top notes. This allows you to "time travel" through the scent's life in seconds.

The Blind Test

To confirm if a reformulation is real or imagined:

  1. Spray two versions on identical strips.
  2. Label them on the back (invisible to you).
  3. Shuffle and smell.
  4. Only reveal the identity after you have noted the differences. This removes psychological bias.

Section 4: Advanced Collector's Techniques

1. The Art of Vintage Layering

Can't afford a vintage bottle? You can simulate the depth of a vintage perfume (like Chanel Antaeus) by layering:

  1. Base: Use a vintage Aftershave (often cheaper and easier to find). It contains the original mossy/musky base notes but lacks longevity.
  2. Top: Spray the Modern EdT on top.
  3. Result: The modern top notes blend with the vintage base notes of the aftershave, creating a scent profile remarkably close to the original vintage EdT.

2. Quantifying Juice in Opaque Bottles

For opaque bottles (like Kouros or Drakkar Noir), it's hard to know how much perfume remains.

3. Fabric Testing

Paper strips are flat (2D) and hold limited scent.

Section 5: Quick Reference Index

For specific brand details, batch code tables, and visual guides, refer to our specialized guides: