Vintage Cartier Guide: Batch Codes & Box Styles
January 01, 2024
Vintage Perfumes
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Collecting vintage Cartier perfumes is complex due to the "Jewel" packaging philosophy and odd naming conventions (like two different "Must de Cartier" scents). This guide simplifies the identification process using boxes, batch codes, and fonts.
1. Quick Visual Dating: The Box System
The easiest way to date Cartier is often the Outer Cardboard Box.
| Era | Box Style | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1981 – 1992 | "Jewel" Boxes | Plain-colored cardboard (Night Blue for Must Parfum, Red for Must EdT, White for Santos). Often contain an inner leather/velvet case. |
| 1992 – 2000 | "Sidebands" | Boxes feature silver or gold vertical bands on the sides. |
| 2000 – 2011 | "The Big C" | Boxes feature a huge "C" letter on the front. • 2000–2004: Grey/Silver color (started with Must Homme). • 2004–2011: Red color (started with Baiser du Dragon). |
| 2011 – Present | "Squared Logo" | Modern boxes with the small squared Cartier logo. |
2. Decoding Batch Codes
Era 1: The Long Code (1981 – 2000)
Code Format: 6 or 7 digits (e.g., 210xxxx).
- Method: Look at the First 3 Digits.
- Digit 1: Year
- Digits 2-3: Month
- Example:
302xxxx= 1983, February. - Warning: Ignore any short 2-3 digit codes printed on the glass; these are mold numbers and are useless for dating. You need the long code, often found on the box or faintly printed on the bottle (use a bright light).
Era 2: The Modern Code (Since 2001)
Code Format: 4 characters (e.g., 2EAA).
- Method: Look at the First Digit.
- Digit 1: Year
- Example:
2EAA= 2002.7CAB= 2007.
3. The "Must de Cartier" Confusion
One of the biggest pitfalls for collectors is the naming of the Must line.
- Must de Cartier PARFUM (1981): The original "Evening" fragrance. Oriental, heavy, luxurious. Typically in a "lighter-shaped" bottle with night blue accents.
- Must de Cartier EAU DE TOILETTE (1981): The "Daytime" fragrance. A completely different green/fresh scent.
- Problem: Consumers were confused because it wasn't just a lighter version of the Parfum.
- Resolution: In 1993, this green scent was renamed "Must II".
- Must de Cartier EAU DE TOILETTE (Modern): Later, a new EdT was released that is actually a lighter version of the Parfum.
Summary:
- Vintage Must EdT (1981-1993) = Green Scent (later Must II).
- Must Parfum = Oriental Scent.
4. Other Iconic Vintage Clues
- Fonts: "Rounded" font characters were used from 1981 to 1995. If you see a bottle with rounded text, it is likely pre-1996.
- Panthère (1987): The original opulent floral with two white panthers flanking the bottle. Discontinued around 2012. (Not to be confused with the modern La Panthère).
- Santos (1981): Tribute to Monsieur de Givenchy. Vintage bottles (1981-1992) often came in white outer boxes with inner silver cases.