Vintage Chanel Guide: Batch Codes & Identification
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Vintage Chanel perfumes are the gold standard of collecting. Whether it's the iconic No. 5 or the powerful Antaeus, dating Chanel bottles requires a keen eye for subtle details like box addresses, "e" signs, and barcodes, as Chanel's visual identity has been remarkably consistent for decades.
To accurately date a bottle, you must combine the Batch Code with Visual Clues (Barcodes, Ingredients, Green Dots).
This guide consolidates all our research into one master resource.
Table of Contents
- The Master Batch Code Table
- The Classics: No. 5, Antaeus & Pour Monsieur
- Egoiste & Platinum Egoiste
- Modern Era: Bleu de Chanel & Fake Spotting
Section 1: The Master Batch Code Table
Chanel's 4-digit code increments by month. The cycle resets every 99 months (~8 years).
Step 1: Check Visual Clues to Find the Era
Before looking at the number, look at the box:
- No Barcode: Pre-1990.
- Barcode present: Post-1990.
- Green Dot Symbol: Post-1992.
- Short Ingredient List (Alcohol, Aqua, Parfum): 1998–2004.
- Long Ingredient List (Allergens like Limonene, Linalool): Post-2004.
- "Neuilly Sur Seine" Address: Post-2005.
Step 2: The Code Lookup
| Batch Code Start | Pre-Barcode (1980-1989) | Early Barcode (1990-1999) | Short List (1999-2004) | Long List (2004-2015) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 80xx | 1981 | 1997 | - | 2006 |
| 90xx | 1982 | 1998 | - | 2007 |
| 00xx | 1982/1983 | 1999 | 1999 | 2007 |
| 10xx | 1983 | 2000 | 2000 | 2008 |
| 20xx | 1984 | - | 2001 | 2009 |
| 30xx | 1985 | - | 2002 | 2010 |
| 40xx | 1986 | - | 2002 | 2011 |
| 50xx | 1987 | 1995 | 2003 | 2012 |
| 60xx | 1988 | 1996 | 2004 | 2012/2013 |
| 70xx | 1988/1989 | 1996 | - | 2013 |
Note: In 2015, the system reset again.
Section 2: The Classics (No. 5, Antaeus, Pour Monsieur)
Antaeus (Launched 1981)
The tough leather chypre.
- Vintage (1981-1989): "Eau de Toilette" is written ABOVE the word CHANEL. No barcode.
- Transition (1990-1994): "Eau de Toilette" moves BELOW the word CHANEL. Barcode appears.
- Modern: "Neuilly Sur Seine" address on the back.
Chanel No. 5
- Extrait/Parfum: Often etched directly into the glass on the bottom.
- Eau de Cologne: Discontinued. Any bottle is vintage.
- Eau de Toilette: Follow the standard breakdown above.
Section 3: Egoiste & Platinum Egoiste
Egoiste (The Sandalwood King)
- Launched: 1990 (following the niche "Bois Noir" experiment 1987-1989).
- Splash Bottles: Existed until 2008/2009.
- Cologne Concentree (1992): A rare, US-exclusive version. Very sought after.
- Reformulation: Significant change around 2010 (Benzoyl Alcohol moved to the last line of ingredients).
Platinum Egoiste (The Fougère)
- 1993–1998: Named "Egoiste Platinum". (Logo: Egoiste big, Platinum small).
- 1998–Present: Renamed "Platinum Egoiste". (Logo: Platinum big).
- Tip: If the bottle says "Egoiste Platinum", it is a definite vintage.
Section 4: Modern Era & Fake Spotting
Bleu de Chanel (2010–Present)
- EdT (2010): The original. Crisp grapefruit and incense.
- EdP (2014): Thicker, amber-heavy.
- Parfum (2018): Dense sandalwood.
Spotting Fakes:
- Magnetic Cap: All real Bleu bottles have a magnetic cap that aligns the logo horizontally. If the logo spins freely or doesn't snap, it's fake.
- Box Codes: Ensure the batch code is engraved (stamped) into the bottom of the box, not just printed.