Vintage Christian Dior Guide: Batch Codes & Reformulations

Vintage Perfumes

Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.

Vintage Christian Dior perfumes are among the most collected in the world. From the revolutionary New Look of Miss Dior to the 80s powerhouse Poison, owning a vintage piece is owning history. However, Dior's batch code system is notoriously complex due to multiple owner changes (Boussac, LVMH).

However, precise clues remain: the address on the box ("30 Avenue Hoche" vs "33 Avenue Hoche"), the introduction of the barcode (1991), and the modern 4-digit batch code cycle.

This guide consolidates our extensive research on Dior Homme, Poison, and J’adore into one definitive resource.

(Note: A separate guide is dedicated exclusively to Fahrenheit).

Table of Contents

  1. The Master Batch Code Table (1977–Present)
  2. Dior Homme: The Silver Stem Legend
  3. The Poison Era: Dating the Oval Bottles
  4. J'adore: Formulations & History

Section 1: The Master Batch Code Table

Dior's system has three main eras: the Pre-Barcode era (Vintage treasure), the Transition era (5 digits), and the Modern era (4 digits repeating cycle).

Key Datapoints:

Quick Reference Table

Era Code Format Decoding Rule Example
1977 – 1980s Variable (3-5 digits/letters) 1st Digit = Year. relied heavily on address/box style. 740G (1977)
1231M (1981)
1990 – 1997 Variable (often 4-5 digits) 1st Digit = Year. Look for "33 Avenue Hoche". 6V285 (1996)
7473J (1997)
1998 – 2007 4 Digits 1st Digit = Year. 2nd Char = Letter A-M. 8A01 (1998)
2J02 (2002)
7M01 (2007)
2008 – 2017 4 Digits 1st Digit = Year. 2nd Char = Letter N-Z. 8R01 (2008)
3X01 (2013)
7Z01 (2017)
2018 – Present 4 Digits Cycle repeats (A-M). Check Formula Code to distinguish from 1998-2007. 8A01 (2018)

Month Codes (Second Letter):

  • A-M Cycle (1998-2007, 2018+): A=Jan, B=Feb, C=Mar, D=Apr, E=May, F=Jun, G=Jul, H=Aug, J=Sep, K=Oct, L=Nov, M=Dec.
  • N-Z Cycle (2008-2017): N=Jan, P=Feb, Q=Mar, R=Apr, S=May, T=Jun, U=Jul, V=Aug, W=Sep, X=Oct, Y=Nov, Z=Dec. (Letter 'O' is skipped).

Section 2: Dior Homme: Silver Stem vs. Black Stem

Dior Homme (2005) is one of the most debated fragrances in history. The key distinction is the "stem" (the tube inside the bottle).

1. The Silver Stem (Original: 2005 – ~2009)

The first version, designed by Olivier Polge, features a steel/silver tube inside the bottle.

2. The Black Stem (Reformulated: 2010 – 2020)

Around 2010 ( Francois Demachy took over), the stem became black.

Dior Homme Intense (DHI) Timeline

Pro Tip: Always check the Formula Number on the box (bottom right or back).

  • Dior Homme EdT 2005-2010: 01704/A
  • Dior Homme EdT 2010-2014: 05434/A
  • Dior Homme Intense 2007-2010: 03214/A

Dior Homme Silver vs Black Stem

Section 3: The Poison Era (1985 – 1990s)

Poison (launched 1985) was a monster hit. Dating early bottles is crucial because the formula was rich in materials now restricted.

Dating Clues for Poison

  1. Address: Only bottles with "30 Avenue Hoche" are true early vintages (1985–1990).
  2. No Barcode: If the box has no EAN barcode, it is almost certainly pre-1991.
  3. The "Oval" Box: Early boxes are iconic, but the batch code is the key.
    • Year 1985: Batch codes like 5488K (starts with 5).
    • Year 1987: Batch codes like 7E281 (starts with 7).
    • Year 1989: Batch codes like 977F.

Poison Vintage Box

Section 4: J'adore (1999 – Present)

J'adore has undergone several subtle adjustments. The bottle (Amphora) has evolved, but the Formula Code is the most reliable tracker.

J'adore Eau de Parfum Formula Timeline:

J'adore Vintage Formula

Visual Cues: