Vintage French Classics: Rochas, Givenchy, Cacharel
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
This guide consolidates identification tips for four iconic vintage French classics: Rochas, Givenchy, Cacharel, and Lancôme. While each has unique systems, they share common industry milestones (EMB codes in 1979, barcodes in 1990, Green Dot in 1992).
1. Rochas
Renowned for Femme, Madame Rochas, and Eau de Rochas.
Batch Code Decoding
- 1980 – 1994 (3 Digits): The last digit indicates the year.
- Example:
...4= 1984 or 1994. (Check for barcode/Green Dot to distinguish).
- Example:
- 1995 – 2005 (Complex Format): Typically 4 digits (e.g.,
01N6).- Format: [Facility][Month][Year]
- Month: 1-9 (Jan-Sept), O=Oct, N=Nov, D=Dec.
- Year: Last digit (5 = 1995 or 2005).
- Example:
01N6= November 1996.
- Since 2006 (P&G): Standard 4-digit code. First digit = Year.
Other Clues
- Address: "33, Rue Francois 1er" (Pre-2007) vs. "17 Rue de Miromesnil" (Post-2007).
2. Givenchy
Home of L'Interdit, Ysatis, Amarige, and Gentleman.
Batch Code Decoding
- Pre-2002 (The First Digit): The first digit indicates the year.
- Example:
6...= 1986 or 1996. - Tip: Use the EMB code (post-1979) and Barcode (post-1990) to determine the decade.
- Example:
- 2002 – 2007 (LVMH Era 1): 4 digits. First digit is year. Letters A through M used.
- Since 2008 (LVMH Era 2): 4 digits. First digit is year. Letters N through Z used.
Notable Clues
- "Made in USA": Many vintage bottles (70s/80s) were blended in the US ("Parfums Givenchy Inc, New York"). These often vary slightly from French versions.
- "Beauvex": This word appearing on the box usually points to the 1993–2002 period.
3. Cacharel
Famous for Anaïs Anaïs, Loulou, and Cacharel pour Homme.
Batch Code Decoding (The Letter System)
Cacharel used a sequential letter system for the second character (usually starting with 'U').
| Year | Code (starts with) | Year | Code (starts with) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1982 | UA | 1993 | UM |
| 1983 | UB | 1994 | UN |
| 1984 | UC | 1995 | UP |
| 1985 | UD | 1996 | UR |
| 1986 | UE | 1997 | US |
| 1987 | UF | 1998 | UT |
| 1988 | UG | 1999 | UU |
| 1989 | UH | 2000 | UV |
| 1990 | UJ | 2001 | UW |
| 1991 | UK | 2002 | UX |
| 1992 | UL | 2003 | UY |
Other Clues
- Address:
- 14 Rue Royale = 1978 – 1991.
- 16 Place Vendome = Since 1992.
- The "Cartouche": The oval logo surrounding the brand name was removed in 2002/2003.
4. Lancôme
The house of Trésor, Magie Noire, and Climat.
The "Copyright" Trick
Lancôme is unique: most boxes since 1978 print the Copyright Year (e.g., "(c) 1982 Lancome"). This is often the release year or package design year, serving as a great baseline.
Batch Code Decoding (Second Letter)
Similar to Cacharel (both L'Oreal owned), look at the second letter.
| Year | Code (e.g., CA..) | Year | Code (e.g., CM..) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1982 | CA | 1993 | CM / UM |
| 1983 | CB | 1994 | CN / UN |
| 1984 | CC | 1995 | CP / UP |
| 1985 | CD | 1996 | CR / UR |
| 1986 | CE | 1997 | CS / US |
| 1987 | CF | 1998 | CT / UT |
| 1988 | CG | 1999 | CU / UU |
| 1989 | CH | 2000 | UV |
| 1990 | CJ | 2001 | UW |
| 1991 | CK | 2002 | UX |
| 1992 | CL | 2003 | UY |
Note: In 2004, the cycle reset to UA. In 2008, it switched to 38xxxx codes (38E = 2008).
Notable Clues
- Climat: Pre-1980 boxes have no EMB code.
- Tresor: Launched in 1990 (Batch CJ or CK).
- Magie Noire: Look for the orange/black sun design (vintage) vs. plain black cap (modern).