Vintage Guerlain Guide: Batch Codes, Stickers & Dating
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Identifying vintage Guerlain perfumes can be a complex puzzle. With decades of changing bottle designs, box patterns ("Zig Zag", "Blue", "Black & Gold"), and a cryptic system of batch codes, it’s easy for collectors to get lost.
This guide consolidates years of research into a single Power Page. We’ve merged our definitive guides on stickers, batch codes, and specific perfume histories (Shalimar, Samsara, Mitsouko) to help you date your bottle with precision.
Whether you found a dusty bottle at an estate sale or are hunting on eBay, this guide is your roadmap.
Table of Contents
- The Quick Reference: Batch Codes (1976–2025)
- The Box Eras: Blue, Zig-Zag, and Gold
- Understanding Stickers (Pre-1976)
- Insider Secrets: The Formula Numbers
- Deep Dives: Shalimar, Samsara, Mitsouko
Section 1: The Quick Reference (Batch Codes 1970–2025)
Guerlain’s batch code system has evolved significantly. Use this master table to quickly identify the year of your bottle.
Note: The first letter/digit usually indicates the Year. The second often indicates the Month (H=Jan, E=Feb, B=Mar, X=Apr, T=May, K=Jun, L=Jul, N=Aug, F=Sep, R=Oct, A=Nov, C=Dec).
| Period | Format | First Letter/Digit (Year Identifier) | Example Code |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1976 – 1980 | 8-9 Digits | P = 1976 S = 1977 V = 1978 D = 1979 M = 1980 |
PFxxxxxx |
| 1981 – 1983 | 6+ Digits | U = 1981 Z = 1982 J = 1983 |
UB 1234 |
| 1984 – 1989 | 6-7 Digits | Y = 1984 W = 1985 P = 1986 S = 1987 V = 1988 D = 1989 |
WB 6AA 1 |
| 1990 – 1995 | 6-7 Digits (Barcode Era) |
M = 1990 U = 1991 Z = 1992 J = 1993 Y = 1994 W = 1995 |
MH 3AA 2 |
| 1996 – 2001 | 5 Digits | P = 1996 S = 1997 V = 1998 D = 1999 M = 2000 U = 2001 |
PE A D2 |
| 2002 – 2007 | 4 Digits | 2 = 2002 3 = 2003 4 = 2004 5 = 2005 6 = 2006 7 = 2007 |
2J02 |
| 2008 – 2017 | 4 Digits | 8 = 2008 9 = 2009 0 = 2010 1 = 2011 ...up to 7 = 2017 |
8R01 |
| 2018 – Present | 4 Digits | Continues sequentially (check Formula code for confirmation) | 8xxxx |
Section 2: The "Zig Zag" & Box Eras
Combining the batch code with the box style gives you the most accurate date.
1. The Blue Boxes (1950s)
Before the 1960s, Guerlain often used simple blue packaging.
2. The "Dot" or "Coffee Bean" Boxes (End of 50s – 1967)
These feature a distinctive pattern of small dots or oval shapes resembling coffee beans.
3. The Black & White "Zig Zag" Boxes (1967 – 1983)
The most iconic vintage packaging.
- 1967–1979: Zig Zag pattern. Review the back of the box. If it is regular without a white square, it is pre-1980.
- 1980–1983: Zig Zag pattern. The back of the box contains a white square (for barcode placement or ingredients).
- Estimated Sign (e): Appeared around the end of the 70s. If present on a Zig Zag box, it dates to approx. 1978–1983.
4. The Black & Gold Boxes (1983 – 2000s)
In 1983, the black and white Zig Zag was replaced by gold and black packaging (often with a barcode appearing by 1989/1990).
Section 3: Understanding Stickers (Pre-1976)
Before the standardized batch codes of 1976, Guerlain used stickers on the bottom of bottles or boxes. These are your best clue for very old vintages.
Chronology of Stickers
1. "Red & Blue" (1930s – Late 1940s) Look for mentions of "province et en Belgique" and Roman numerals on the right side.
2. "Red & Blue" (1950 – 1956) Similar to above, but without the "Belgium" indication. Roman numerals moved to the left side.
3. Monochrome (1956/57 – Early 1960s) Stickers became single-color (often blue, black, or orange). They end with the phrase: "...magasins de Paris".
4. "Legislation en vigueur" (Early 1960s – 1967) Monochrome stickers ending with "...legislation en vigueur". Arabic numerals.
5. Letter Codes (1967 – 1976) Monochrome stickers ending with "...legislation en vigueur" but now featuring a distinct Letter (A, B, etc.) in the left corner.
Section 4: Insider Secrets: The "Formula" Number
(Sourced from correspondence with former Guerlain employees)
Since roughly 2003–2004, LVMH brands (including Guerlain) began printing a Formula Number on the box to track the "recipe" of the perfume. This is the most accurate way to spot reformulations.
- How it works: Every time a formula is tweaked (due to regulations or ingredients), the number changes.
- Where to find it: Usually near the ingredients list (e.g.,
formula 03637M). - The Rule: If the number changes, the scent has changed.
Rough Formula Timeline:
- 0000 – 2999: Years 2003–2006
- 3000 – 5999: Years 2007–2010
- 6000 – 7999: Years 2011–2014
- 8000+: Year 2015 onwards
Pro Tip: If you love a specific version of L'Instant or Insolence, note down its formula code. Buying a bottle with the same code guarantees the same scent, regardless of the production year.
Section 5: Specific Perfumes
Shalimar: Dating Guide
- Parfum vs. EdP vs. EdT: The EdP was launched much later than the extraction.
- 1980s: Look for the Zig-Zag box.
- 1990s: Oval labels.
- Reformulations: Significant changes occurred in 2007 (Formula 3469M for EdP) and 2011 (Formula 05051M for EdP).
Key Formulas for Collectors:
- Shalimar EdT: Old formula
915M(pre-2007). - Shalimar EdP: Old formula
922M(pre-2007).
Samsara: The Red Legend
Samsara was launched in 1989.
- The Golden Ring (1989-1990): The very first "Eau de Parfum" bottles featured a distinct golden ring around the neck.
- No Ring (1991+): Later EdP bottles and the newly launched EdT (1991) dropped the ring.
- Clear vs. Red Glass:
- 1989–1999: Clear transparent glass for EdP and EdT.
- 1999 Onwards: Bottles switched to the iconic Red Glass.
Collector's Note: The general consensus is that Samsara remained largely unchanged from 1989 to 1997. If you want the original Mysore Sandalwood richness, look for clear glass bottles from this era (Batch codes D, M, U, Z, J, Y, W, P, S).
Mitsouko: The Empress
Mitsouko has survived countless eras since 1919.
- 2007 Reformulation: A critical change occurred around 2007 (EdT Formula
02723M). Many collectors found this version "thinner". - 2013 Restoration: Thierry Wasser reworked the formula (EdP Formula
07545Mapprox) to bring it closer to the vintage profile. The 2013+ versions are widely considered excellent "restorations" of the classic chypre character.