Vintage Hermès Guide: Batch Codes & Reformulations
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
This guide consolidates essential information for dating vintage Hermès fragrances, including batch code identification, reformulations, and detailed looks at classics like Bel Ami, Amazone, and Terre d'Hermès.
1. Decoding Hermès Batch Codes
Hermès batch codes are relatively straightforward but have changed formats over the decades.
Era 1: The Letter Codes (1978 – 1999)
For this period, the First Letter of the batch code indicates the year of production. Note: Before the early 90s, codes were often painted on the bottle bottom and easily erased.
| Letter | Year | Letter | Year |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | 1978 | L | 1989 |
| B | 1979 | M | 1990 |
| C | 1980 | N | 1991 |
| D | 1981 | P | 1992 |
| E | 1982 | R | 1993 |
| F | 1983 | S | 1994 |
| G | 1984 | T | 1995 |
| H | 1985 | U | 1996 |
| I | 1986 | V | 1997 |
| J | 1987 | W | 1998 |
| K | 1988 | X | 1999 |
| (Safety Check: O, Q, Y, Z were typically not used as year indicators) |
Era 2: The Number Codes (2000 – Present)
Around 2000, the system shifted. You generally check the First Number.
| Number | Year | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | 2000 | |
| 1 | 2001 | Address change to "23 Rue Boissy d'Anglas" usually appears around 2001-2002. |
| 2 | 2002 | |
| 3 | 2003 | |
| 4 | 2004 | Introduction of long ingredient lists on boxes. |
| 5 | 2005 | |
| ... | ... | Pattern continues (6=2006, etc.) |
2. Bel Ami (1986)
The Leather Icon
- Original (1986): Came in a "Cocktail Shaker" shaped bottle. Famous for its rich, smoky leather profile.
- Reformulation: Later moved to a standard rectangular bottle. The modern version is widely considered excellent but sharper/spicier than the "smooth" vintage.
- Tip: Vintage aftershave is easier to find than the EdT and layers beautifully with modern versions.
3. Amazone (1974)
The Floral Green Classic
- 1974 Version: Created by Maurice Maurin.
- 1989 Reformulation: Updated by Jean-Claude Ellena.
- Visual ID: Older boxes (pre-1979) do not have the EMB code. The alcohol volume "90%" generally disappears from the front of the box around 1983-1984.
4. Terre d'Hermès (2006)
The Modern Masterpiece Collectors often debate reformulations of Terre.
- Temperature Sensitivity: Extensive testing suggests Terre d'Hermès is highly temperature-dependent. The same bottle can smell "crisp/citrusy" in cold air (10°C) and "softer/woodier" in warm air (24°C). This often leads to false reformulation rumors.
- EdT vs. Parfum: The Parfum version implies strongly woody heart/base notes compared to the sharper EdT; it is not simply "stronger."
[!TIP] Reading Painted Codes: On vintage bottles (especially pre-1990), batch codes were painted and rub off easily. If missing, look for other clues like the address lines or volume percentage.