Vintage Italian Guide: Gucci & Versace

Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.

This guide focuses on the two titans of vintage Italian perfumery: Gucci and Versace. For Giorgio Armani, please see our dedicated Vintage Armani Guide.

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1. Gucci

Gucci's perfume history is complex, marked by changes in ownership (Scannon, Wella, P&G, Coty) and Tom Ford's creative direction.

The Eras of Production

• 1972 – 1993 (The Early Days): Labeled as "Scannon, Les Parfums Gucci".
  • Key scents: Gucci No. 1, Gucci pour Homme (1976), Nobile.
• 1994 – 2004 (The Wella Era / Tom Ford Golden Age): Labeled as "Scannon" (produced by Wella).
  • Key scents: Envy, Rush, Gucci pour Homme I.
• 2006 – 2015 (The P&G Era): Labeled as "P&G Prestige".
• Since 2015: "Coty".

Dating by Address (The "Scannon" Box Trick)

For bottles from the 1990s and 2000s, the address on the box is the best dating clue:

• Rue de Castiglione: 1997 – 2002
• Rue Francois 1er: 2003 – 2008
• Rue de Miromesnil: 2008 – 2011

Batch Code Decoding

• Wella Era (1994 – 2006): Complex codes. Typically, the last digit indicates the year (or check the Address to be sure).
• P&G Era (2006 – 2015): 4-digit code. The first digit indicates the year.
  • Example: 9... = 2009.

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2. Versace

Versace perfumes have three distinct "Eras" of production.

Era 1: "Made in France" (1981 – 1988)

Produced by Yves Saint Laurent.

• Label: "Made in France" or "Paris".
• Batch Code: 4-5 digits. The first digit is the year.
  • Example: 4.... = 1984.

Era 2: "Made in Italy" (1988 – 2004)

Produced by Giver, Vepro, or Versace Profumi.

• Distributor Clues (USA):
  • VEPRO USA: 1991 – 1995.
  • Versace Profumi USA: 1995 – 2005.
• Label: "Made in Italy".
• Batch Code: 5-6 digits. The first digit is the year.
  • Example: 6..... = 1996.

Era 3: Euroitalia (2005 – Present)

Produced by Euroitalia.

• 2005 – 2009: 6 digits. First digit = Year.
• Since 2010: 7 digits. First TWO digits = Year (e.g., 10..... = 2010).

3. Other Italian Classics (Trussardi, Krizia, Laura Biagiotti) These brands often shared a production house: Diana de Silva.

The "Diana de Silva" Era (The Golden Age)

From the early 1980s to the late 1990s, "Diana de Silva" was the powerhouse behind many Italian masterpieces (Ferrè, Bugatti, Krizia, Genny, Byblos as well - largely under different licenses but similar quality standards).

• Key Identifier: Look for "Diana de Silva Cosmétique" on the box.
• Quality: These are renowned for incredible ingredient quality (real oakmoss, castoreum) before strict IFRA regulations.

Krizia

• K de Krizia (1980): Maurice Roucel's first creation. A massive aldehydic floral.
• Moods (1989): A honeyed woody floral.
• Dating: Early bottles are marked "Florbath Profumi di Parma" (1980–1999). Modern versions marked "Morris" are reformulation.

Trussardi

• Trussardi Donna (1982): The white "flask" bottle. A leather-chypre beast.
• Trussardi Uomo (1983): The black flask. Heavy leather.

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4. Summary Checklist

1. Gucci Address: Castiglione (Late 90s) -> Francois 1er (Mid 00s) -> Miromesnil (Late 00s).
2. Versace Origin: France (80s) -> Italy (90s+).
3. Versace Distributor: Vepro USA (Early 90s) -> Versace Profumi USA (Late 90s).
4. Diana de Silva: The hallmark of 80s Italian quality.