Vintage Jean Patou Guide: Inverse Alphabet Codes

Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.

Dating vintage Jean Patou bottles is notoriously difficult because the batch code system changed frequently and famously used an "Inverse Alphabet" logic. This guide breaks down the codes by era.

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1. The Eras of Jean Patou Batch Codes

Era 1: Pre-1972 (The Simple Numbers)

• Format: 3 or 4 digits (e.g., 694).
• Logic: The first two digits usually indicate the year.
  • 561 = 1956
  • 694 = 1969

Era 2: 1972 – 1986 (The 7-Number Code)

• Format: 7 digits, all numbers (e.g., 7038xxx).
• Method: Look at the First 4 Digits.
  • Digit 1: Decade (7=1970s, 8=1980s).
  • Digits 2-3: Month.
  • Digit 4: Year.
• Example: 7038xxx --> 7(Decade) 03(March) 8(Year) = 1978, March.

Era 3: 1986 – 1997 (The Inverse Alphabet)

• Format: 7 characters, mixed letters and numbers (e.g., W009WEB).
• Method: Find the Third-to-Last Letter. It uses an inverse alphabet (Z is oldest).

Letter	Year	Letter	Year
Z	1986	T	1992
Y	1987	S	1993
X	1988	R	1994
W	1989	Q	1995
V	1990	P	1996
U	1991	O	1997

Era 4: 1998 – 2001 (The Short Inverse Code)

• Format: 4 characters (e.g., N041).
• Method: Look at the First Letter (Inverse Alphabet continues).
  • N = 1998
  • M = 1999
  • L = 2000
  • K = 2001

Era 5: 2002 – Present (The P&G/Modern Era)

• Format: 4 numbers (e.g., 5033).
• Method: First Digit is the year.
  • 2xxx = 2002
  • 5xxx = 2005
  • (Note: P&G acquired Patou in 2001/2002).

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2. Other Dating Clues (Box & Labels)

Ownership Statements

• 1984 – 2002: Label reads "Jean Patou Parfumeur".
• 2002 – 2011: Label reads "P&G Prestige Beauté" (Procter & Gamble era).
• Since 2012: Label reads "SA Designer Parfums Ltd".

Addresses

• 1994 – 2003: "Rue Saint Florentin"
• 2004 – 2014: "Rue de Castiglione"

Ingredients List

• Pre-2005: Short list of ingredients or no list.
• Post-2005: Long list of ingredients (allergens) on the box.

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3. Top Vintage Fragrances to Look For

• Joy: The "costliest perfume in the world." Vintage versions use high concentrations of natural Jasmine and Rose that are restricted today.
• 1000 ("Mille"): A complex chypre-floral.
• Sublime: A golden, sunny floral oriental launched in 1992.
• Patou Pour Homme: A legendary masculine chypre, highly sought after by collectors.