Vintage Lanvin Guide: Dating by Era
January 01, 2024
Vintage Perfumes
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Vintage Lanvin perfumes are historic treasures, but the brand's turbulent history makes dating them a challenge. unlike other brand, there are no reliable batch code charts for vintage Lanvin. Dating relies on company history, address changes, and packaging details.
1. Key Historical Eras (The "Who Owned It?" Test)
Knowing the parent company is the most accurate way to date a Lanvin bottle.
| Era | Timeline | Key Characteristics on Box/Bottom |
|---|---|---|
| The "Jeanne Lanvin" Era | Pre-1946 | Box/Bottle says "Jeanne Lanvin". (Pro-tip: If it says just "Lanvin", it's post-1945). |
| The Family Era | 1946 – 1964 | Box says "Lanvin, Paris". High quality. |
| The "Charles of the Ritz" Era | 1964 – 1970 | Merged with US company. Labels may say "Lanvin - Charles of the Ritz". |
| The Squibb Era (Decline) | 1971 – 1979 | Owned by pharmaceutical giant Squibb. Quality declined. "Eau de Lanvin" standalone scent relaunched. |
| The Independence Era | 1979 – 1989 | Family regained control but struggled financially. Last era of vintage production. |
| Factory Closure | 1989 | Nanterre factory closed. All perfumes discontinued except Arpège. |
| L'Oreal Era | 1996 – Present | Address: "16 Place Vendome". Modern formulations. |
2. The "Eau de Lanvin" Confusion
The term "Eau de Lanvin" changed meaning three times. Decoding this is crucial for collectors.
- 1935 – 1959: A standalone unisex fragrance (similar to an Eau de Cologne/Sport).
- 1959 – 1970 (The Mix Era): The name was used for lighter versions of famous scents. You will see "Arpège Eau de Lanvin", "My Sin Eau de Lanvin", etc. This indicates a 1960s bottle.
- 1971 – 1983 (The Relaunch): Squibb discontinued the "mixed" scents and brought back "Eau de Lanvin" as the standalone unisex scent.
- Result: If you have "Arpège Eau de Lanvin", it's from the 60s. If you have "Eau Arpège" (Eau de Toilette), it's likely post-1971.
3. Notable Dating Clues
- "Made in USA" / "Blended in USA": Common in the 1960s/70s due to tax variations. Don't panic—the oils were identical to the French versions (often exported and bottled in the US). "Charles of the Ritz" often appears on these labels.
- Barcodes: Vintage Lanvin bottles (pre-1990) generally do NOT have barcodes.
- Addresses:
- Nanterre: The historic factory location (until 1989).
- 16 Place Vendome: L'Oreal era (Modern, post-1996).
4. Notable Vintage Fragrances
- Arpège (1927): The masterpiece. Look for the black round bottle (Boule Noire) or the rectangular version.
- My Sin (Mon Péché) (1924): A legendary floral aldehyde with civet. Discontinued for a long time.
- Scandal (1933): A leather chypre, very rare.
- Rumeur (1934): A fruity chypre. (Note: Modern 2006 version is completely different).
- Spanish Geranium: A cult classic, mostly sold in the US market.
- Monsieur Lanvin: A chypre for men.