Vintage Masculine Scents: Drakkar, Azzaro, CK

Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.

This guide covers the vintage masculine powerhouses of the 1980s: Guy Laroche (Drakkar Noir), Azzaro, and Calvin Klein. These scents defined an era, and early vintage bottles are highly prized for their depth and richness (often due to ingredients restricted today, like oakmoss).

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1. Guy Laroche (Drakkar Noir)

The definitive powerhouse. Vintage versions are sought after for their natural mossy base.

The Drakkar Noir Timeline

• Version 1 (1982 – 1989): The Holy Grail.
  • Box: "Textured" (like leather/pebble grain) with a red & brown frame.
  • Text: "Guy Laroche Paris" written in a single line.
  • Addresses: "29 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré" (pre-1986) or "9 Avenue Matignon" (1986–1989).
• Version 2 (1989 – 1996):
  • Box: Smooth/Dotted texture with a grey frame.
  • Text: "Guy Laroche Paris" written in two lines (after 1991).
  • Addresses: "9 Avenue Matignon" (until 1991) or "16 Place Vendome" (post-1991).

Batch Codes

• 1981 – 1991: Look at the second letter of the code (e.g., U**A**...).
  • A=1981, B=1982, C=1983... H=1988, J=1989, K=1990, L=1991.
• 1992 – 2003: 5-digit codes starting with UM, UN, etc.

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2. Azzaro pour Homme

A fougère masterpiece.

Bottle Evolution

• 1978 – Mid-80s (First Edition):
  • Logo: Full-size "L A" logo on the box.
  • Cap: Round top (not hexagonal).
  • Text: "Parfums Loris Azzaro SA Paris" (Single line).
• Mid-80s – 1997 (Second Edition):
  • Text: "Loris Azzaro - Paris" (Two lines).
  • Sticker: Silver foil sticker on the bottle.
• 1997 – 2007: Hexagonal cap introduced. Silver sticker remains.
• Since 2007: Logo embossed directly on the glass (no silver sticker). Modern formulation.

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3. Calvin Klein

From Obsession to Eternity and CK One.

The Ownership Timeline (Crucial)

1. Minnetonka Era (1978 – 1989): "Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company".
   • Made in: USA only.
   • Label: Lists "New York" only (no European cities).
   • Clue: Often labeled "Cologne Spray" (not Eau de Toilette).
2. Unilever Era (1989 – 2005): Transition period.
   • Made in: USA and France.
   • Label: Lists European cities (London, Paris, etc.).
   • Distributor: "Cosmair" (until 2000) -> "Luxury Products LLC".
3. Coty Era (2005 – Present): Modern formulations.

Batch Code Decoding

• Unilever Era (Pre-2005): 4 digits. The LAST digit is the year.
  • Example: 295**1** = 1991 or 2001. (Check distributor/address to distinguish).
• Coty Era (Post-2005): 4 digits. The FIRST digit is the year.
  • Example: **6**313 = 2006.
• Letter Codes (e.g., E203): Common on US bottles. The last digit is the year.