The 1980s Vintage Perfume Review Library
January 01, 2024
Vintage Perfumes
The 1980s: The Era of Powerhouses
The 1980s were the golden age of bold, room-filling fragrances. Oakmoss was king, and projection was nuclear. This library collects our detailed reviews of the era's legends.
1. Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent, 1981)
"The Scent of Gods"
- The Vibe: Animalic, clean-dirty, mythological.
- Key Notes: Civet, Honey, Leather, Artemisia.
- Verdict: A masterpiece of contrast. The vintage "White Shoulders" bottles (1981-1986) are the holy grail, offering a depth of natural civet that modern versions can only mimic.
- Read the full Vintage YSL Guide
2. Trussardi Donna (1982)
"The Crocodile Skin"
- The Vibe: Opulent, leathery floral.
- Key Notes: Galbanum, Tuberose, Leather.
- Review: A true 80s "bomb". The original bottle with the crocodile skin texture contained a juice that was technically a chypre-floral but wore like a leather jacket. The modern version is a completely different, fresh floral scent.
3. Bel Ami (Hermès, 1986)
"The Cocktail Shaker"
- The Vibe: Spicy, burning leather.
- Key Notes: Birch Tar, Cardamom, Leather, Styrax.
- Review: In its original "Cocktail Shaker" bottle, Bel Ami is arguably the greatest leather scent ever made. It smells of burnt wood and expensive saddle soap.
4. Poison (Dior, 1985)
"The Forbidden Fruit"
- The Vibe: Dark, plummy, tuberose narcotic.
- Key Notes: Plum, Tuberose, Incense, Opoponax.
- Review: The fragrance that got banned from restaurants. Vintage Poison (look for the Oval box) is a thick, syrupy potion that lasts for 24+ hours. Modern versions are thinner and "cleaner" due to allergen restrictions.
5. Parfum Sacré (Caron, 1990)
"The Sacred Resin"
- The Vibe: Spiritual, spicy rose.
- Key Notes: Myrrh, Pepper, Rose, Cinnamon.
- Review: A bridge between the loud 80s and the spiritual 90s. The gold bottle contains a stunning, resinous rose that feels like entering a cathedral.
6. L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme (LIDG/LIDGE)
(Note: While released in 2004/2005, it is spiritually a powerhouse)
- The Vibe: Cocoa, Star Anise, Patchouli.
- Review: The Extreme version (LIDGE) is a modern legend. The vintage "Rimmed Bottle" (pre-2015) is sought after for its deeper, darker cocoa note.
7. K de Krizia (1980)
"The Aldehydic Bomb"
- The Vibe: Sparkling, expansive, unapologetically 80s.
- Key Notes: Aldehydes, Hyacinth, Civet, Oakmoss.
- Review: Maurice Roucel's debut. A massive floral aldehyde with a dirty, sexy base. The vintage "Florbath" bottles are the ones to get; the modern "Morris" versions are pale ghosts.
8. Guerlain Derby (1985)
"The Barbarian"
- The Vibe: Spicy, leathery chypre.
- Key Notes: Carnation, Pepper, Leather, Oakmoss.
- Review: One of the rarest Guerlain masculines. The original "Eagle" bottle (1985-1992) is a holy grail. It’s a rugged, dry leather chypre that feels like a precursor to Heritage but wilder.
9. Cacharel Pour Homme (1981)
"Nutmeg & Nature"
- The Vibe: Woody, spicy, natural.
- Key Notes: Nutmeg, Ylang Ylang, Vetiver.
- Review: Famous for its overdose of Nutmeg. It smells like a damp forest floor in the best way possible.
(More reviews to be added from the archives)