Vintage Serge Lutens Guide: Shiseido & Palais Royal
January 01, 2024
Vintage Perfumes
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Vintage Serge Lutens is a unique house that transitioned from Shiseido ownership to an independent brand. Dating bottles relies heavily on the Logo and the Address.
1. The Three Main Eras
Era 1: Shiseido Label (1992 – 1999)
- Logo: The label reads "Les Salons du Palais Royal - Shiseido".
- Bottle: Almost exclusively the "Bell Jar" shape.
- Rarity: Extremely high.
Era 2: The "Palace" Logo (2000 – 2010)
- Logo: A stylized drawing of the Palais Royal arcade.
- Label: Reads simply "Serge Lutens".
- Bottle: The classic tall, thin rectangular bottles (Export Line) were introduced here.
- The "Allergen" Check:
- 2000–2005: Ingredients list is SHORT (no allergens listed). Highly sought after.
- 2005–2010: Ingredients list is LONG (contains Limonene, Linalool, etc.).
Era 3: The "SL" Logo (2010 – Present)
- Logo: The initials "SL" intertwined.
- Status: Modern formulation.
2. Batch Code Dating (The First Two Letters)
For the rectangular export bottles (75116 Paris), look at the first two letters of the code.
- F = 1999
- G = 2000
- H = 2001
- J = 2002
- K = 2003
- L = 2004
- M = 2005 (Allergens appear on box)
- N = 2006
- P = 2007
- Q = 2008
- R = 2009
- S = 2010 ("SL" Logo appears)
3. Notable Reformulations
- Feminité du Bois: Originally a Shiseido scent (purple bottle), re-released under Serge Lutens in 2009.
- Muscs Koublai Khan: The older "Palace" logo bottles are considered more "animalic" than the cleaner modern versions.