Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Guide: Batch Codes & First

Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.

Dating vintage Van Cleef & Arpels perfumes (like First, Tsar, and Gem) requires deciphering a batch code system that has changed ownership multiple times (Sanofi, PPR/Gucci, Interparfums).

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1. The Eras of Ownership

• 1976 – 1999 (Sanofi Era): The golden age. First (1976), Pour Homme (1978), Tsar (1989).
  • Identifier: "Sanofi" or "Parfums Van Cleef & Arpels" on the box (Address often "22 Place Vendome").
• 1999 – 2006 (YSL Beauté / PPR): Era of Murmure.
  • Identifier: Distributed by "YSL Beauté".
• 2007 – Present (Interparfums): Modern era.
  • Identifier: "Interparfums".

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2. Decoding Batch Codes

Era 1: The Sanofi Codes (1976 – 1999)

• Format: 4 or 5 digits/letters (e.g., 8xxx).
• Rule: The First Digit is the year.
  • 8... = 1978, 1988, or 1998.
  • Check: Does it have a Green Dot? (Yes = 1992+). Does it have a Barcode? (Yes = 1990+).
  • Example: A bottle of Tsar with code 9xxx and no barcode is 1989.

Era 2: YSL/PPR Codes (1999 – 2006)

• Format: 4 digits (e.g., 2xxx).
• Rule: First Digit is the year.
  • 0... = 2000
  • 4... = 2004

Era 3: Interparfums (2007 – Present)

• Format: 4 alphanumeric characters (e.g., 04H1).
• Rule: First two chars indicate year/factory. (Check online calculators primarily for this modern era).

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3. Notable Vintage Fragrances

First (1976)

Jean-Claude Ellena's masterpiece.

• Vintage: Look for "Sanofi" on the box. The older bottles have a richer, more animalic civet note.

Tsar (1989) & Pour Homme (1978)

Refined masculine classics.

• Vintage: Look for the "marble" effect on the Tsar box (early versions) vs. the solid green box (later).

Gem (1987)

A discontinued chypre-fruity beast. Highly sought after.