Vintage YSL Guide: Opium, Kouros & Batch Codes
Note: For general tips on dating packaging (barcodes, EMB codes) and storage, see our Vintage Perfume Collector's Handbook.
Vintage Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) perfumes represent some of the boldest scents of the 20th century. Accurately dating them requires understanding the shifting ownership eras (Charles of the Ritz, Parfums Corp, Sanofi, Gucci/PPR, L'Oreal). This guide focuses on the "Golden Age" of YSL.
Introduction: The Timeline of YSL Ownership
Understanding the history of the house is crucial for dating vintage bottles, as the distributor name on the box is often the best clue.
1. The Charles of the Ritz Era (1963 – 1986)
The golden age. In 1963, the US firm "Charles of the Ritz" acquired 80% of YSL. This era birthed legends like Y (1964), Rive Gauche (1971), Opium (1977), Kouros (1981), and Paris (1983).
- Identifier: Boxes often say "Made in France - Yves Saint Laurent Parfums" or reference "Charles of the Ritz".
- Alcohol Grade: "80°" was used until around 1980/1981, after which it switched to "80%".
2. The Parfums Corp. Era (1986 – 1993)
YSL bought back the perfume division. The label changed to "Yves Saint Laurent PARFUMS CORP.".
- Identifier: "PARFUMS CORP." on the box.
- Barcodes: EAN barcodes (bars + numbers) started appearing universally around 1988-1990.
- Green Dot: The Green Dot symbol appeared around 1992.
3. The Sanofi Era (1993 – 1999)
YSL was acquired by Sanofi.
- Identifier: "SANOFI" label on the box.
- Transition: You may find "Parfums Corp" boxes used during the early Sanofi years due to stock carryover.
4. The Gucci Era (1999 – 2008)
Gucci acquired YSL, and Tom Ford took the creative helm.
- Identifier: "Yves Saint Laurent Parfums" (without "Corp" or "Sanofi"). The address "NEUILLY" often appears.
- Ingredients: Long lists of ingredients (allergens) became mandatory in 2005.
5. The L'Oreal Era (2008 – Present)
L'Oreal acquired the YSL beauty division.
- Identifier: The word "Parfums" disappeared. Labels say "Yves Saint Laurent - YSL Beauté". The acronym "B.R.I" (Beaute Recherche Industrie) often appears.
Section 1: The Master Batch Code Table
YSL batch codes can be confusing, but they follow a general pattern. Always cross-reference the batch code with the era clues (distributor name, barcode, green dot) above.
The 4-Digit Era (1979 - 2004)
Usually found on the bottom of the box. During transition years, recycle codes 10 years later.
| Year | Batch Code Starts With | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1979 | 9xxx | Charles of the Ritz |
| 1980 | 0xxx | "80°" marking fades out |
| 1981 | 1xxx | Kouros Launched |
| 1982 | 2xxx | |
| 1983 | 3xxx | Paris Launched |
| 1984 | 4xxx | |
| 1985 | 5xxx | |
| 1986 | 6xxx | Parfums Corp Era begins |
| 1987 | 7xxx | |
| 1988 | 8xxx | Jazz Launched |
| 1989 | 9xxx | Barcodes start appearing |
| 1990 | 0xxx | |
| 1991 | 1xxx | |
| 1992 | 2xxx | Green Dot appears |
| 1993 | 3xxx | Sanofi Era begins |
| 1994 | 4xxx | |
| 1995 | 5xxx | |
| 1996 | 6xxx | |
| 1997 | 7xxx | |
| 1998 | 8xxx | |
| 1999 | 9xxx | Gucci Era begins |
| 2000 | 0xxx | "Neuilly" address appears |
| 2001 | 1xxx | |
| 2002 | 2xxx | M7 Launched |
| 2003 | 3xxx |
The "Number + Letter" Era (2004 - 2011)
Around 2004, the system shifted to a 4-character code: one number + three letters, or sometimes just 4 numbers.
| Year | Batch Code | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 | 4xxx or 4ABC | Long ingredient lists appear (2005) |
| 2005 | 5ABC | |
| 2006 | 6ABC | |
| 2007 | 7ABC | |
| 2008 | 8ABC | L'Oreal Era begins |
| 2009 | 9ABC | |
| 2010 | 0ABC | |
| 2011 | 1ABC |
The Modern Era (2011 - Present)
A new system: 38 followed by a letter indicating the year.
- 2011: 38H...
- 2012: 38J...
- 2013: 38K...
- 2014: 38L...
- 2015: 38M...
- 2016: 38N...
- ...and so on.
Section 2: The King: Kouros
“The Scent of Gods”
Kouros is perhaps the most debated and revered male fragrance of the 80s. Created by Pierre Bourdon in 1981, it is a powerhouse of civet, honey, leather, and oakmoss.
The Two Golden Eras
Collectors generally seek out bottles from the first two eras.
1. First Era: "Charles of the Ritz" / "Paris" (1981 - 1986)
- The "White Shoulders": The most distinguishing feature. The top and bottom metal bands of the bottle are white, not chrome.
- The Box: Features a stylized "Paris" on the front.
- The Scent: The "ur-Kouros". incredibly rich, animalic, and natural.
- Visual ID: "Yves Saint Laurent" is written on the blue background of the box, not in a white rectangle.
2. Second Era: "Parfums Corp." (1986 - 1993)
- The Chrome Base: The white shoulders and base are replaced by chrome/silver metal.
- The Box: The word "PARFUMS CORP." appears on the bottom. EAN barcodes appear around 1989/1990.
- The Scent: Still magnificent. Some argue a "ghost reformulation" happened in 1986 to tone down the animalics slightly, but it remains a powerhouse compared to modern versions.
Visual Differences: Chrome vs. White Base
- 1981-1986: Solid white plastic effect on shoulders and base.
- 1986-2000s: Chrome/Silver metal shoulders and base.
- 2011+: The chrome shoulders and base disappeared entirely; the bottle is now all-white glass.
Section 3: The Queen: Opium
“It will be the Greatest, and we will call it Opium” — Yves Saint Laurent, 1976.
Opium redefined perfumery. It was so concentrated that originally there was no Eau de Parfum, only Eau de Toilette (19% concentration, higher than many modern EdPs) and Parfum (30%).
Dating Vintage Opium
- The "80°" Mark: Found on bottles from 1977 to roughly 1980/81. If you see "80°" instead of "80%", it is a very early vintage.
- The Splash Bottles: 60ml and 120ml splash bottles were standard until 2003. A sealed splash bottle is a prime collector's item.
- The Secret de Parfum: Launched in 1992 as an Eau de Parfum equivalent. Discontinued in 2003.
The 2009 Reformulation
In 2009, L'Oreal redesigned the bottle and reformulated the scent.
- Vintage (1977-2008): The "Inro" bottle with the leaf/bamboo motif.
- Modern (2009-Present): A new bottle design with the "window" in the center. The scent is significantly different—lighter, less spicy, and lacking the deep oakmoss/sandalwood base of the original due to IFRA regulations.
Section 4: Modern Classics: La Nuit de L'Homme
Even modern classics have their "vintage" years. La Nuit de L'Homme (launched 2009) is famous for its rapid reformulations.
The 3 Major Formulations
- The Original (2009 - 2011): The holy grail. Dark, spicy, and incredibly potent.
- Formula Code: 8YB02-1 (2009) or 8YB02-2 (2011).
- Batch Codes: 9xxx, 0xxx, 1xxx.
- The First Reformulation (2011 - 2015): Brighter, fresher, less depth but still good performance.
- Formula Code: 8YB02-2.
- The Second Reformulation (2016 - Present): Significant change. Smoother, "rounded", with reduced longevity and projection.
- Formula Code: C167049/1.
- Ingredient List: Water often appears before Parfum in the list.
Summary for Collectors
- Vintage La Nuit: Look for 2009-2010 bottles (Batch 9xxx, 0xxx) for the original dark, cardamom-heavy beast mode scent.
- Mid-Era: 2011-2015 bottles are excellent, fresher alternatives.
- Current: 2016 onwards is a lighter, more office-safe scent.